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Wood Stain Color Chart

The same can of stain can look honey-gold on pine, rich brown on oak and barely there on maple. This interactive chart shows common stain colours on ten popular woods side by side, taking into account how readily each species absorbs stain, so you can narrow down choices before you test. Pick a wood and a stain, adjust the number of coats, and compare.

Wood stain colour preview

This stain on every wood

Every stain on this wood

Colours on screen are approximations and vary with your display. Stain results depend on the board, sanding, conditioner and application. Always test on a scrap of the same wood.

Wood Stain Test Kit Printables

Printable stain test-board labels, a sample card template to record each test, a finishing schedule and a project finishing log.

Formats: PDF, XLSX, DOCX. Instant download after payment (link valid 72 hours, up to 5 downloads). AI-assisted: the templates were drafted with AI help and reviewed and laid out by Kedop.

$3.00 USD, one-time

Secure card checkout by Stripe. Full refund within 7 days — see the refund policy and license.

Why the same stain looks different on each wood

Stain is a pigment or dye carried in a liquid that soaks into the surface of the wood. How much soaks in depends on the wood’s density and structure: open-grained oak drinks stain into its pores, soft pine absorbs it unevenly, and dense maple and birch resist it. The wood’s own colour shows through too — the same brown stain looks warm on cherry, neutral on oak and almost invisible on walnut. That is why stain cans show colours on one species only, usually pine or oak.

How popular woods take stain

WoodNatural colourTakes stainTip
PinePale yellowUnevenly — can blotchUse a pre-stain wood conditioner or a gel stain
Red oakLight pinkish-brownVery well; pores darkenGreat for dramatic grain
White oakLight tanWell and evenlyPopular for modern and rustic looks
MapleCreamy whiteLightly; blotch-proneConsider dye stains or toners
CherryPinkish, darkens with ageModerately; can blotchOften left natural to age
WalnutDark chocolateLittle visible changeUsually oiled rather than stained
BirchPaleLightly; blotch-proneCondition first
PoplarCream with green streaksUnevenlyBetter painted, or use darker stains
MahoganyReddish-brownEvenlyGrain filler for a glass-smooth finish
CedarReddish with light streaksWellOften used outdoors with exterior stains

Using the preview

  1. Choose a wood and a stain; the large panel shows a board with grain.
  2. Change the number of coats — each extra coat deepens the colour, especially on absorbent woods.
  3. Add a topcoat: oil-based finishes add a slight amber tone; water-based clear coats stay closer to the stain colour.
  4. Compare the stain across all woods, or all stains on your wood, in the grids below; click any swatch to open it.
  5. Shortlist two or three colours to test on real scrap wood.

Always test on scrap

No screen can show exactly how a stain will look on your board. Take an offcut of the same wood, sand it to the same grit as your project (often 150–180 for stain), and test each shortlisted colour with the same number of coats and the same topcoat. Let it dry fully — stains often look different wet and dry — and look at it in the room where the piece will live.

Worked example: choosing for a pine table

You want a warm mid-brown on a pine tabletop. In the preview, medium walnut on pine looks darker in the softer earlywood and a little blotchy, while golden oak looks lighter and more even. On scrap pine, you would test both, with and without a pre-stain conditioner, and one coat versus two. If the walnut looks patchy even with conditioner, a gel stain in a similar colour usually gives a more even result on pine.

Preparing wood for an even stain

Common problems and fixes

ProblemLikely causeFix
Blotchy patchesUneven absorption (pine, maple, cherry, birch)Conditioner, gel stain or dye; sand back and retry
Too darkToo many coats or left on too longWipe with mineral spirits soon after; lighter stain next time
Too lightDense wood or over-sanded surfaceSecond coat, or sand to a coarser grit
Sticky finishExcess stain not wiped offWipe with a rag dampened with the right solvent
Raised grainWater-based stainPre-wet, dry and sand lightly before staining

Stain types

TypeCharacteristics
Oil-based penetrating stainSlow drying, easy to wipe evenly, the most common
Water-based stainFast drying, low odour, can raise the grain — pre-wet and sand
Gel stainThick, sits more on the surface; good for blotch-prone woods and vertical surfaces
Dye stainVery fine colour, clear and vivid; good on maple and cherry
Stain and finish in oneConvenient, but harder to control depth

Printable test-board kit

The optional pack includes printable stain test-board labels, a sample card template to record wood, sanding grit, conditioner, stain, coats and topcoat, a finishing schedule sheet and a project finishing log. The preview above is free.

AI-assisted content

This page was drafted with AI assistance and reviewed by Kedop. Stain colour names are generic descriptions, not specific brand colours, and on-screen colours are illustrations.

Frequently asked questions

Why does stain look different on my wood?

Each species absorbs stain differently and has its own base colour.

What is the best wood for staining?

Oak takes stain very well and evenly; maple and pine need extra care.

How do I stop pine from blotching?

Use a pre-stain conditioner or a gel stain, and test first.

Does a second coat make stain darker?

Usually, especially on absorbent woods; wipe off excess each time.

Are the colours on screen accurate?

They are approximations; always test on scrap wood.

Does a clear coat change the colour?

Oil-based finishes add a slight amber tone; water-based clear coats change it less.

How long should stain dry before a topcoat?

Follow the can; oil-based stains often need several hours to overnight.